This really does improve the kit without adding any aftermarket barrels. To enhance the main gun and two machine gun's look I used the scalpel to make a small hole, then a larger series of drills to hollow out the barrels. The upper part of the hull and lower are also a snap-together fit which again needs no glue to secure neatly. those in a hurry simply swipe some thin putty into there if you like. You can see here there is a gap here on the joints of the hull, one that I worked a bit harder with glue to secure and close. These are all socketed in together, but there is a slight gap between all of these that requires some attention or putty. The top of the hull fits together with five easy parts.

a Notek look-alike light, a sledgehammer, two towing hooks and some plastic tow cable, two rear lights and formation lights as well as an aerial which we will all add later (and not glue on to the kit to aid painting). Fitting in with the roadwheels, we also hollowed out the tip of the exhaust with a scalpel and a drill.Ī look at the extra detail parts of the hull which I left off the kit until the latter stages of completion. We banged it up with cuts from the scalpel and used glue to soften the surface before using a Japanese cutting saw to create rough, rusted surface texture. Exactly like the real thing that was often corroded and damaged due to the nature of the thinness of the steel used and temperatures seen in the part. The instructions call for the exhaust to be added to the rear of the hull. We are already thinking that a company like 'Retrokit', who makes alterations to these kits in resin, would have many opportunities with this chassis from the Pz 38(t). Here we are after the top and bottom halves are secured. No glue is required and the fit is snug without the extra adhesion. The bottom and top halves of the hull are a simple snap-fit together. You can drive this around after construction if you like which is good for younger modellers, but most who are reading this won't feel that need I would think. Here you see them attached to the already moulded on parts of the suspension on the hull. I really over-emphasized the damage (along with a few bullet holes) to keep in the same cartoonish scale detail as the model design. I took to these with a cutting saw and the scalpel to take the nicks out of them that often occurred in heavy road wear. A start is the road wheels, that in real life are rimmed with rubber. Because the build is so very simple we will keep it brief we will concentrate however on the parts of the kit that the modeller could enhance.

World war toons model kits artist